Simple Parmesan Rind Stock

For the past couple of days I have been cleaning my kitchen. Emptying all shelves and drawers, washing them and replacing all my dishes, cooking pots, spices and flavourings. Today I finished. Cleaning my refrigerator was the finale.

For months I have been collecting cheese rinds. I sometimes add one to a chicken stock that I am making. Today I tossed about a dozen of them into a stock pot with frozen bits of fennel, carrots, onion and vegetables I have also been setting aside for a stock making session. I added about a gallon of cold water, bay leaves and turned on the high heat to bring all to a boil. When it was merrily bubbling away I reduced the heat to maintain a light boil. I left that on the stove top for about 45 minutes.

After cooling for awhile and straining in my colander this is the rich stock I collected. Now packaged and labelled and returned to the freezer I have the beginnings of some wonderful soups, stews and sauces. Easy as that.

Then I immediately concocted this version of avgolemono Greek soup. But without the lemons. I had none. Thanks, Ren, for the comment. You are absolutely right. This is more like an Italian straciatella than avglolemono.

Quick and Easy Egg Drop Soup with Spinach and Orzo

2 c. parmesan rind stock
1/4 c. orzo pasta
1/4 c. finely chopped spinach
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 tbsp. camelina oil
sea salt and piment d'esplet to taste

Boil the stock with the orzo until it is tender. Add spinach to wilt. Lightly beat the egg with the oil in a small bowl. Slowly drizzle into the simmering soup and stir until cooked, about one minute. Serve immediately. Garnish with piment d'esplet.

Stock Tips for the Turkey Carcass

Rather than stow the carcass away in the freezer just put it back into the oven and make the turkey stock right now. There is no time like the present to convert the Christmas turkey carcass into a tasty golden stock for making soups, sauces and stews. There are a myriad of ways to make stock but simply put, a long simmer produces more flavour and a clearer stock. Fat makes it cloudy. 

Start the roasted bones in cold water. As fat rises to the surface skim it off every ten minutes for the first half hour and then every half hour for the next two hours.  Chill the completed stock and scrape off the fat that sets on the surface.

An easy way to get a crystal clear stock is to freeze it first. Then defrost it in a sieve over a bowl in the refrigerator. As it melts a gelatinous blob is formed that strains all impurities. Discard the blob.

Long simmer on the stovetop, in the oven or in a crockpot. A quick stock can be made in a pressure cooker for 15 minutes after full pressure is reached. Allow it to cool naturally.

Stock will keep in the refrigerator up to 6 days or in the freezer up to 6 months. Freeze in resealable plastic bags by laying them flat until frozen and then they can be conveniently stacked in the freezer to save space.

The only safe method to preserve stock by canning is to use a pressure canner. At sea level pints are processed at 10 pounds (5 kg) pressure for 75 minutes and quarts at 10 pounds (5 kg) pressure for 90 minutes. At altitudes over 1,000 feet (305 m) use 15 pounds (7.5 kg) pressure. Stocks preserved by pressure canning have the benefit of a longer simmer time and become very rich and flavourful. After properly cooling and checking that lids have sealed they can keep on the shelf for a year. (Source: National Presto Industries Inc.)

Roasted Turkey Stock

Pull off all the meat and reserve. Place the bones in a roasting pan along with aromatic vegetables. Roasting imparts a more intense and complex flavour. Feeling adventurous? Add a cinnamon stick. This is a tip from a Mennonite friend.

 leftover turkey carcass, including neck, wing and leg bones

4 onions, quartered

2 large carrots, peeled and cut into chunks

2 large celery ribs, cut into chunks

2 bay leaves

1 tsp. whole black peppercorns 5 mL

4 sprigs fresh thyme

1 whole star anise

6 oz. can of tomato paste 200 mL

Preheat oven to 450 F (230 C). Tear turkey carcass into large pieces and arrange in a single layer in a roasting pan. Fit vegetables around the carcass. If they won’t fit around the carcass then roast the vegetables in the same pan after the bones are done. Roast until brown and sizzling, 20 to 25 minutes.

Remove from oven and transfer everything to a stockpot. Be sure to deglaze the roasting pan with a little water and scrape up all the flavourful brown bits. Add to stockpot.

Add thyme, bay leaves, black peppercorns, star anise and tomato paste to stockpot.

Fill with cold water to cover and place over medium high heat. Bring to a boil and reduce heat to maintain a slow simmer. Simmer for a minimum of 5 hours but better if simmered for 12-24 hours. Skim the fat off the top regularly to prevent clouding of the stock.

Cool and strain through a sieve. Discard all the solid parts. Refrigerate and use within 6 days or freeze up to 6 months. 

Turkey Demi-Glace

Velvety textured demi-glace is typically made from veal bones because they contain the most gelatin. The roasted turkey stock is reduced until it is very thick and then gels with cooling.  With a demi-glace an intense flavour is imparted without excess liquid. If you do not like the flavour of celery it can be omitted when making the stock.

Continue to simmer prepared turkey stock for another 3 or 4 hours. Skim the fat from time to time. The stock will be reduced to a syrupy thickness. Keeps in the refrigerator for 6 days or frozen 6 months.

Second Day Brodo 

Brodo is Italian for broth. This is a long simmered bone broth detoxifying cleanse.  Bone broths are a popular trend and touted to be very healthful. Although there is no definitive research to prove they are a super food they are hydrating, contain collagen that is a protein that may help with bone, joint and skin health and contain vegetable and herb anti-inflammatories. The lighter meal after a period of over indulgence brings your digestion back into balance.

carcass and extra meat from the turkey

8 c. water 2 L

2 tbsp. apple cider vinegar 30 mL

1 c. onion, diced 250 mL

1/2 c. carrot, rough chopped into 1/2-inch lengths 125 mL/ 1.2 cm

1/2 c. celery, rough chopped into 1/2-inch lengths 125 mL/ 1.2 cm

1 bay leaf

1 tbsp. salt 15 mL

1/2 c. whole garlic cloves 125 mL

1 tbsp. olive oil 15 mL

fresh ginger

coconut oil

Break the turkey carcass into small pieces and place in a large stockpot with cold water and vinegar. Bring to a boil and then reduce to a simmer. During the boiling, a frothy layer will rise to the top. Skim regularly to remove.

Simmer 6 hours over gentle heat. If the level of the water drops below the bones during simmering, add water to bring the level back up.

After 6 hours, add the remaining ingredients and simmer for an additional 30 minutes.

Strain through a fine strainer discarding all solids. Return the liquid to the stove. Bring to a moderate boil and cook until the volume has been reduced to 4 cups (1 L). This step will intensify the flavors of the broth.

Then heat oven to 325 F (160 C). Toss garlic in oil and salt and wrap in aluminum foil. Roast in oven for 20 minutes until the garlic cloves are lightly browned and softened.

Finish the dish by cutting the peeled, fresh ginger into matchsticks. Use about 12 per serving. Add about 1 teaspoon (5 mL) coconut oil and three cloves of roasted garlic per serving.

Place the ginger, coconut oil and garlic in the bottom of a soup bowl and pour in 6 ounces (200 mL) of the hot brodo. Let the ginger and garlic steep for 2 minutes and serve. (Source: Chef Zeb Stevenson)

Roast Beef Stock

Beef stock = bone broth. Simple.

While bone broth is all the rage it only tells me that what is old is new again. Or as my design professor in university quoted, "There is nothing new under the sun". I have been making this for years, as many of us have.

I was pleased to find marrow bones in my package of organically raised beef soup bones. You pay a premium for good marrow in a big city restaurant. The aroma and flavour transported me to a more exotic place than my humble kitchen. My earthly desires were satisfied with a feast of marrow and fleur de sel on crackers.

Roast Beef Stock

3 lbs. beef soup bones
2 large carrots
2 stalks celery
1 onion
1 head of garlic peeled and sliced in half
6 black peppercorns
3 bay leaves
1 whole clove
dried herbs as you wish, such as rosemary, sage, thyme

Preheat oven to 450 F.

Place bones in a roasting pan. Bake for 25 - 30 minutes, until bones and meat are beginning to brown.

Prepare the carrots and celery by peeling and cutting into three inches pieces. Peel onion and cut in half. Peel one head of garlic and slice cloves in half. Add all the the roasting pan and continue to bake for another 25-30 minutes.

Transfer bones and vegetables to a large stock pot. Add a little water to the roasting pan and scrape the tasty burnt bits from the bottom of the roasting pan and add them to the stock pot.

Add spices and herbs to stock pot. Fill with cold water to cover the bones by two or three inches. Bring to a boil and simmer for 2 hours. Strain. Package into single use size containers and refrigerate or freeze.

Fiddlehead Cream Soup

There is nothing like the waning days of winter to arouse the desire for spring. I feel like I have been trapped in my house foreva. Now is the time we should be checking the freezer and be sure all last summer's bounty has been consumed.

I have fiddleheads and must use them before the new crop arrives. This soup is adapted from one of my all time favourite cookbooks The Silver Palate Good Times.

Fiddlehead Cream Soup
1/2 c. unsalted butter
1 large yellow onion
5 c. homemade chicken or mushroom stock
1 lb. fiddleheads
1 c. dry white wine
1 c. whole milk
1 c. cream
1/2 tsp. fresh ground nutmeg
3 tbsp. fresh squeezed lime juice
salt and pepper, to taste
piment d'esplet

Melt the butter in a Dutch oven and add onions. Cook gently over medium heat until soft and transparent. Add stock, wine and fiddleheads. Simmer for about 30 minutes.

Cool slightly. Put in blender or food processor. Add milk, cream, nutmeg, lemon juice and salt and pepper. Puree until smooth. Pour back into the Dutch oven and gently heat until hot. Ladle into 6 or 8 soup bowls and garnish with piment d'esplet. Serve immediately.

Chinese Hot and Sour Soup

This is one of my favourite authentic Chinese recipes. This is so easy to make. The surprise to me in this recipe is that the spiciness or heat comes from the white pepper that is added. I have always thought there was a sriachi or hot sauce. Nope, simply white pepper.

This recipe will come together much more smoothly if all the ingredients are chopped, measured and ready to add before beginning to cook. In French this is called mise en place, everything in its place. Chop, measure and line up the ingredients so you can focus on combining them in creating pure alchemy with this recipe for Hot and Sour Soup.

Many of the same ingredients are used over and over again in this cuisine. If you are a fan then it is worth building a pantry.

  

 Chinese Hot and Sour Soup

2/3 c. boneless pork loin, cut into 1/4 inch strips 

2 tsp. dark soy sauce

4 small Chinese dried shitake mushrooms

3/4 c. dried black fungus

1 1/2 tbsp. cornstarch

1/2 c. canned sliced bamboo shoots, cut lengthwise into 1/8 inch wide strips

2 tbsp. red wine vinegar

2 tbsp. rice vinegar, unseasoned

1 tbsp. light soy sauce

1 1/2 tsp. sugar

2 tbsp. vegetable oil for frying

4 c. using mushroom soaking liquid and sodium reduced chicken stock

3 to 4 oz. firm tofu, rinsed and drained, cut into 1/2 inch cubes

1 large egg

1 tsp. sesame oil

1 1/2 tsp. ground white pepper

2 tbsp. thinly sliced green onions

2 tbsp. fresh whole cilantro leaves

Toss pork with dark soy sauce until well coated. 

Soak shitake and black fungus in boiling hot water to cover, about 30 minutes.  Cut out and discard stems from shitakes, then squeeze excess liquid from caps and thinly slice. Squeeze liquid from black fungus. Trim any hard nubs. In another bowl, stir together 1/4 cup (60 mL) cooled mushroom soaking liquid with cornstarch and set aside.

Stir together vinegars, light soy sauce, sugar and salt. 

Heat a wok or heavy pan over high heat. Add vegetable oil and stir fry pork until it just changes colour, about one minute. Add shitake mushrooms, black fungus and bamboo shoots and stir fry one minute. 

Add stock and bring to a boil, then add tofu. Return to a boil and add vinegar mixture. Stir in cornstarch mixture and return to a boil. Liquid will thicken. Reduce heat to moderate and simmer one minute. 

Beat egg with a fork and add sesame oil. Add egg to soup in a thin stream, stirring slowly in one direction with a spoon. Stir in white pepper. Sprinkle with green onions and cilantro before serving.  Makes 6-8 first courses. (Adapted from Bruce Cost)

Smoked Salmon Chowder

Christmas is just around the corner and mostly the focus is on the big day. The day we have a big turkey with all the trimmings. Thankfully this is a family event because no one family could possibly cater to all the celebrations.

Christmas Eve is traditionally a fish and seafood night for many families. This recipe may be something you serve that night or it might be a way to use up all those bits and pieces of leftover seafood. Either way it is very satisfying

Smoked Salmon Chowder

Any fresh or smoked fish would work in this recipe. You could also use all the bits and pieces of leftover fish and seafood in this chowder. Manitoba smoked goldeye would be delicious.

1 tbsp. olive oil

3 c. leeks, white and light green parts only, rinsed and sliced

1 garlic clove, minced

1 large russet potato, peeled and cubed

1 large stalk celery, chopped

1/2 tsp. kosher salt

1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

2 c. vegetable broth

2 tbsp. tomato paste

2 c. milk (any fat content)

8 oz. smoked salmon, flaked

1/2 c. heavy cream

2 tbsp. chives, chopped

Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot over low heat. Add leeks and garlic and sauté for 2 minutes.

Add potato, celery, salt and pepper and cook over medium heat for about 1 minute, stirring constantly. Add broth and simmer until potato is tender, about 15 minutes.

Add tomato paste and milk, then the salmon, and bring the mixture back to a simmer for a few minutes but don't let it boil, or the milk will separate. As it simmers, stir in the cream.

Remove from heat, garnish with chives, and serve. Makes four to six servings. (From Epicurious)

Poached Cod with Pernod Saffron Broth

This picture perfect dish was my lunch today. I must confess that I am not the chef. Friends Meredith and Gary invited me to their Sooke acreage for lunch. The drive from Victoria is intoxicating as it winds through rocky mixed coniferous and deciduous forests and eventually exposing peek-a-boo views of harbours and inlets along the Strait of Juan de Fuca.

I always feel recharged when I visit. Their quaint home lies in a cozy clearing surrounded by forest and gardens providing complete privacy.  The Sooke River is the back boundary of their plot. Water is a calming feature and a reminder of life, Mother Nature and the seasons. Growing up on the farm one of my favourite summer vacation diversions was to bicycle to the creek about three miles down the road. By the end of harvest it was barely a trickle in contrast to the overflowing banks in spring.

I am envious of the bay tree and fresh plucked leaves anytime they are called for. Meredith and Gary have lived here for a very long time and together have created this respite from the world. Meredith asked for a bay leaf and Gary came back from the garden with fresh thyme. I was perplexed. After pulling the leaves from the stems and adding them to the poaching liquid Meredith added bay leaves. I pondered this throughout the leisurely meal and after until I realized that after many years of marriage, raising a family and lovingly maintaining their home, perhaps they sometimes work together as one. Obviously Gary knew she had bay leaves already but no thyme so, of course he picked thyme. Either that or I completely missed something.

Meredith carefully followed the recipe from the folded magazine and checked from time to time when I would have thrown it all together. The result was perfection. I had to find this recipe and save it. Although the fresh fish and seafood are not always available where I live I think that frozen cod would be acceptable. The clams not so much so but the dish would still be lovely even without clams.

An added bonus for me was to be able to take pictures with a fully set table. I rarely have that opportunity. It makes for an interesting photograph and allows for different shooting angles with background interest.

As an aside, if you are dreaming of visiting Vancouver Island this is a beautiful spot to spend a week. Gary and Meredith have a private totally equipped cottage on their property that they rent out. So if you would be romanced by a quaint cottage in the woods backing onto a river within a five minute drive to the beaches on the Strait of Juan de Fuca and 40 minutes to the city, make a note of this.

Poached Cod with Pernod Saffron Broth       adapted from Fine Cooking

4 5-oz. cod fillets (preferably 1 inch thick) 

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper  

3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 

1 small fennel bulb (about 3/4 lb.), trimmed (leave core intact) and cut into 1/2-inch wedges, plus 1 tbsp. chopped fronds  

2 large cloves garlic, finely chopped 

1 medium-large shallot, chopped  

2 8-oz. bottles clam juice 

8 oz. small baby red or fingerling potatoes, scrubbed and sliced into 1/8-inch-thick coins, ends discarded (about 6 potatoes)  

1 large tomato, cut into small dice (12 oz., about 1-1/2 cups) 

2 tbsp. anisette liqueur, such as Pernod or Sambuca  

1 bay leaf 

1 large sprig fresh thyme  

1/4 tsp. roughly chopped or coarsely ground fennel seed 

A generous pinch of saffron, crumbled (about 25 threads)  

12 littleneck clams, scrubbed 

1-1/2 tbsp. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

 

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 325 F. Season the cod with salt and pepper. Let it sit at room temperature while you prepare the braising mixture.

Heat the olive oil in a 12-inch ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. Add the fennel, sprinkle with a pinch of salt and pepper and brown on both sides, about 5 minutes total. Remove the pan from the heat and transfer the fennel to a plate. Put the pan over low heat and add the garlic, shallot, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Cook, stirring, until just softened, 1 to 2 minutes.

Add the clam juice, potatoes, tomato, liqueur, bay leaf, thyme, fennel seed, and saffron to the skillet. Raise the heat to medium and bring to a simmer. Simmer for 3 minutes to start the potatoes cooking. Nestle the cod pieces and clams into the sauce, piling the fennel on top of the fish and making sure all of the potatoes are submerged. Tightly cover the pan with a lid or aluminum foil and poach in the oven until the fish is almost cooked through, 10 to 15 minutes, depending on thickness.

With a slotted spatula, transfer the cod to 4 shallow bowls. Bring the braising liquid, clams, and vegetables to a brisk simmer on top of the stove, cover the pan, and cook until the clams are opened and the vegetables are tender, 3 to 6 minutes more. Divide the opened clams (discard any unopened ones) and vegetables among the bowls. Add the fennel fronds and parsley to the braising liquid in the pan. Bring to a simmer and pour over the fish and vegetables.

Crusty garlic bread served alongside is perfect for soaking up the flavorful sauce.

One can never have too many ideas for soups. The obvious is that they are warming and hearty for winter weather. But they are also usually inexpensive. Any budget finds relief in a few meals of soup every week. What I love most about this potato soup is the cheesy crouton.

It is Cooking Light Virtual Supper Club time and this month is hosted by Val of More Than Burnt Toast with the theme Warm Up to Winter. And that is exactly what we have done. This is a treasure trove of satisfying winter recipes.

 

Visit everyone and see the wonderful food.

Val at More Than Burnt Toast has the main course. English Cottage Pie.

Susan selected this appetizer to share. And who doesn't love artichoke dip. Cheesy Spinach Artichoke Dip.
Shelby at Grumpy's Honeybunch brings  Haricots Vert with Bacon
Sandy Red Wine Marinated Beef Stew.

Jerry at A Life Lived made this favourite of all winter desserts, Warm Gingerbread with Lemon Glaze

Roasted Garlic and Shallot Potato Soup with Cheesy Croutons

• 5 whole garlic heads, unpeeled
• 3 1/2 tablespoons olive oil, divided
• 1 1/4 teaspoons salt, divided 
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, divided
• 10 shallots, unpeeled (about 3/4 pound)
• 2 cups coarsely chopped onion 
• 1 cup dry white wine 
• 3 cups fat-free, less-sodium chicken broth
• 2 cups (1/2-inch) cubed peeled baking potato (about 3/4 pound) 
• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
• 1 cup 2% reduced-fat milk 
• Croutons:
• 16 (1/2-inch-thick) slices French bread baguette
• Cooking spray
• 3/4 cup (3 ounces) crumbled blue cheese
• 2 tablespoons grated fresh Parmesan cheese 

1. Preheat oven to 400 F.
2. To prepare soup, remove white papery skins from garlic heads (do not peel or separate cloves); cut off tops, leaving root ends intact. Place garlic in a shallow roasting pan. Drizzle 1 tablespoon oil over garlic; sprinkle with 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Cover with foil. Bake at 400 F for 20 minutes. Add shallots to pan. Drizzle 1 tablespoon oil over shallots; sprinkle with 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Cover and bake for 25 minutes or until tender and browned. Cool. Squeeze garlic to extract pulp; peel shallots. Discard skins. Set garlic pulp and shallots aside.
3. Heat 1 1/2 tablespoons oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat; add onion. Cover and cook 15 minutes or until lightly browned, stirring occasionally. Add garlic pulp, peeled shallots, and wine. Reduce heat; simmer, uncovered, 5 minutes.
4. Stir in broth, potato, and thyme; bring to a boil. Cover, reduce heat, and simmer 20 minutes or until potato is tender. Cool slightly. Place half of potato mixture in a blender; process until smooth. Pour pureed mixture into a large bowl. Repeat procedure with remaining potato mixture.
5. Return pureed mixture to pan; stir in milk, 3/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper into pureed mixture. Cook over medium heat 5 minutes or until thoroughly heated.
6. To prepare croutons, place bread slices in a single layer on a large baking sheet. Lightly coat tops of bread with cooking spray. Bake at 400 F for 8 minutes or until lightly browned. Sprinkle cheeses evenly over bread slices, turning once. Bake 3 minutes or until cheese melts. Serve warm with soup.

Cooking Light
MARCH 2003

Squash and Fire Roasted Tomato Soup with Quinoa

I love squash but in my opinion some of the long neck varieties lack flavour. That problem is fixed with this soup. My inspiration comes from African style Squash and Peanut Soups. In this recipe the flavours are nicely balanced so don't worry if you are not a fan of coriander or turmeric. They are not the star of the dish. I bet after a day in the refrigerator it will be even better. Because the squash is pureed there should be no problem freezing individual portions for future lunches.

Any type of diced tomato would work just fine but I happened to find a can of fire roasted tomatoes this morning in the grocery store. I like the look of the burnt bits. As an added bonus this recipe is vegetarian and vegan, since both those eating styles are popular in today's food world.

I am experimenting with some of my specialty spices but of course, substitute with what you have on hand.

Squash and Fire Roasted Tomato Soup with Quinoa

1 small squash, any variety
1 onion, coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon olive oil and 1 tablespoon butter
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tablespoon fresh ginger, finely chopped
1 14 fluid ounce (398 mL) can of fire roasted diced tomatoes
1/2 teaspoon coriander, crushed
1 teaspoon Aleppo turmeric
1/4 teaspoon piment d'esplette
1/4 teaspoon Vietnamese Saigon Cassia cinnamon
1 1/2 tablespoons peanut butter
1 teaspoon honey
1 cup mushroom stock
1 cup cooked chick peas
sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
1 cup cooked quinoa
parsley for garnish

Grill or oven roast the squash until tender. Cool and remove seeds and skin. Puree pulp with a little water.

Saute onion in olive oil and butter until translucent. Add garlic and ginger. Saute for another minute. Add coriander, cinnamon, turmeric and piment d'esplette and saute until aromatic.

Add canned tomatoes and pureed squash. Heat to bubbling and keep at a simmer. Add peanut butter, honey, stock and chick peas. Add salt and pepper to taste. Simmer for five minutes and remove from heat. Serve immediately and top with a generous scoop of quinoa. Garnish with parsley.

French Onion Soup for the Soul

You can see a pattern here. I am gradually coming back to my blog. More importantly as the season of the market ends I can come back to your blogs. You and I cannot imagine the work it is to be a farmers' market vendor. I am definitely making changes for next summer. First of all I will purchase another freezer. Since I make my doughs in advance and freeze them the extra storage space will allow me to make in advance so I can take a week off from preparation from time to time and have a life. The other item I am purchasing is a commercial mixer. To date everything has been mixed by hand ... breads, scones, pies. Granted everything cannot be done in a mixer but if I can even do half it will be a huge boost to my ever so tired arms and hands.

I loved this soup. It was inspired by a recipe from Chef Micheal Smith. I love my little Le Creuset individual cast iron pots. They make dinner service a classy event.

It's cooling down out there and warm food is coming into favour.

 

French onion soup

2 tbsp. butter

2 tbsp. vegetable oil

4 large onions, peeled and thinly sliced

1/2 c. brandy or fortified wine such as Madeira

4 c. chicken broth

2 sprigs fresh thyme leaves

sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

4 slices hearty bread or large croutons

2 c. shredded Swiss, Gruyere or Emmenthal cheese

Caramelize onions until they are a deep golden colour. Add brandy. Turn up the heat and cook for a few minutes, stirring constantly, until the additional liquid has evaporated.

Add the chicken broth and bring to a simmer. Add the thyme leaves, season with salt and pepper and continue cooking for 15 minutes or so.

To serve, preheat the broiler in your oven. Toast the bread slices to add flavour and help absorb the soup. Cut rounds out of the toast, large enough to fit your soup bowls.

Ladle the soup into four ovenproof serving bowls. Top each with a slice or two of toasted bread rounds, enough to cover the top of the soup. Cover the bread with an even mound of shredded cheese. Broil until the cheese has melted and browned. (Adapted from Chef Michael Smith)

Chanterelle and Corn Chowder

Wild chanterelles are the most coveted of mushrooms. They are delightfully aromatic, beautifully shaped and highly nutritious. They are picked from forests across the country between mid-July to mid-October but Saskatchewan chanterelles are special.

“They are premium because they grow in a semi-arid climate. Saskatchewan chanterelles are dry, perfect round shapes, small size, clean, velvet touch, and the aroma is unbeatable. You don't need to see them but you can smell them when you walk into the forest,” boasts Elisabeth Poscher, professional forager and owner of Prairie Infusions out of Love, SK.

Areas with more rainfall produce large, water logged, floppy chanterelles. Saskatchewan chanterelles are small and dry, because it rains briefly then it's dry, so they come in a hurry and then stay dormant in that shape until it rains again briefly, then they grow a bit more. The drier the climate the more concentrated the chemical compounds in the plant. That is why their scent and flavour are so intense.

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Chanterelles are rich in carotenoids and Vitamin A, for eyesight and dry skin. Burbot liver and chanterelles have the most concentrated natural food sources of Vitamin D. Wild edible mushrooms have anti-inflammatory and cholesterol-reducing properties. They enhance the immune system and assist in reducing blood pressure and blood sugar levels.

Elisabeth ships them from northern Saskatchewan all over the country and I was so glad I placed my order. This chowder is the perfect autumn lunch.

Chanterelle and Corn Chowder

2 strips smoked bacon, finely chopped

3 tbsp. unsalted butter

1/2 c. yellow onion, finely diced

1 medium celery stalk, finely diced

1 large garlic clove, finely minced

3/4 lb. chanterelles, coarsely chopped

 1 c. fresh corn kernels

1 large potato, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice

3 tbsp. all purpose flour

1 tsp. fresh thyme, leaves only

1 1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

1 small bay leaf

1 qt. mushroom or chicken stock

1 c. heavy cream

1/2 tsp. fresh lemon juice or more to taste 

Cook bacon in a large stockpot over medium heat until just starting to brown, 3-4 minutes, then add butter. When butter has melted, stir in onion, celery and garlic. Cook until tender and translucent, 4 to 5 minutes. Add chanterelles and cook for 3 to 4 more minutes or until mushrooms are softened and tender. Stir in corn and potatoes and cook for 2 to 3 minutes or until they begin to soften.

Sprinkle flour over vegetables in pot and stir to coat them with the flour. Add thyme, salt, pepper and bay leaf. Add stock, stirring to prevent lumps from forming. Bring soup to a boil, then turn down heat and simmer for 20 minutes or until potatoes are tender.

Remove bay leaf. Stir in cream and lemon juice. Taste for seasoning, adding more lemon juice or salt as needed. Makes 6 cups.

Roasted Asparagus Soup

It's a lazy day in the kitchen. I am cleaning the refrigerator in anticipation of my trip out of town. Odds and ends of vegetables were juiced. My thinking is that they might be consumed faster if I drink them! A couple of my jars of honey have solidified. They are sitting in hot water to return to liquid state. And I am waiting for some sunlight, which may not happen today, because I want to take pix of my asparagus soup.

I spent Saturday testing rhubarb recipes. My own rhubarb in the garden is just poking through the earth so I purchased from the grocery store. The problem with writing is that you need seasonal ingredients before they are in season. When the newspaper hits the mailbox home cooks will have an abundance of it and looking for recipes.

Initially I planned to feature 'spring flavours' including asparagus. I soon realized that both can't be covered properly in 1100 words. Asparagus will have to wait for next year. However, I tested a few asparagus recipes and photographed them. I am sharing one now. This soup brings back memories of 3 young women who, while cycling across Canada, spent 2 nights with me last summer. We had a wonderful dinner together and they made a delicious and rich asparagus soup for us.

Today's soup is a simple purée and employs a velouté sauce rather than a cream sauce as its base. Velouté is one of Escoffier's five 'mother sauces'. Can you name the other four? Wait, do you know Escoffier? Auguste Escoffier was a French chef and restauranteur and a leader in updating and modernizing French cuisine in the 1920's.

Back to the sauces. Escoffier considers these to be the 'mother sauces' from which all else is derived - tomato, Hollandaise, Béchamel, espagnole and velouté. Velouté is the adjective form of velour meaning silky smooth. This is a silky smooth sauce made with a vegetable, fish or chicken stock where the bones have not been roasted. It is a light sauce.

The thickening for the sauce is a blond roux. A roux is made with equal parts fat and flour. The fat, in this case butter, is melted and the flour added. It must be cooked out a little so there is no starchy flavour but a blond roux has no colour. Only cook until bubbly and do not let the flour become brown.

These sound so gourmet but when I grew up on the farm my mother always made a roux to thicken gravy and make sauces. A white sauce was common. Milk is used rather than stock. We even occasionally had a brown sauce. The roux is cooked longer to develop a brown colour and stock is added. I can't remember exactly but I think this was a gravy when we didn't have any meat stock. Unlike the Americans, Canadians don't like white gravy.

Parmesan Crusted Asparagus  from Cook's Country is another recipe I tried today. It's delicious. I chopped off some asparagus tips to use as a garnish for this soup.

Roasted Asparagus Soup

1 lb. fresh asparagus
1 stalk celery, diced
1/2 c. onion, diced
olive oil
2 tbsp. butter
2 tbsp. all purpose flour
sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
Parmesan or asiago cheese
2 c. chicken or fish stock
pinch cayenne

Trim woody ends from asparagus. Roughly chop reserving a few tips for garnishing. Toss asparagus, celery and onion in olive oil, season with salt and pepper and roast in 375 F oven for 5 minutes.

Melt butter in saucepan. Add flour and mix well. Cook until bubbly but not browned. Slowly whisk in stock. Bring to a boil while whisking. Remove from heat and set aside.

Add roasted vegetables to blender. Add velouté sauce. Purée until silky smooth. Serve. Garnish with Parmesan croutons or Parmesan encrusted asparagus tips.

Roasted Vegetables and Pork Roast Dinner in a Bowl

This is yesterday's pork roast dinner in a bowl. The flavours are warm and rich in this puree. I made a lot of roasted vegetables with the pork roast. Squash, fennel, carrots and potatoes were placed alongside the cumin scented meat. After the meal I put all the leftover vegetables in my blender. I added water to the roasting pan and scraped up all the tasty bits and added this to the blender. A grating of black pepper and a dash of salt completed this soup. What could be easier?

Hearty Beef Barley Soup with a Classic Club Sandwich

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I have some of the best food when I visit my father in central British Columbia. His area is a magnet for the artistic and adventurous. I remember an outstanding Italian meal quite a few years ago. The Cariboo has a calling that many cannot resist.

Last year I visited and we noshed at another of his favourite places. The food was simple but simply delicious. I wonder if he knows how lucky he is. I have recreated the dishes in these recipes.

This soup recipe is delicious. I find that the pearl barley will thicken up this soup nicely without added flour. I tried adding the carrots with the celery and onions before pressure cooking but they were overcooked and tasted bitter. Leave the carrots to add later. The barley and carrots take about the same length of time to cook.

Beef Barley Soup

1 tbsp. olive oil 15 mL

2 lb. beef oxtails or short ribs 1 kg

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 leeks, chopped, white and light green parts

4 carrots , diced

1 c. yellow onion, chopped 250 mL

2 stalks celery, diced

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 sprigs fresh thyme leaves

3 bay leaves

10 c. low sodium beef broth 2.5 L

1 c. pearled barley 250 mL

Heat olive oil in pressure cooker and brown meat. Add leeks, onion, celery, thyme and garlic and 10 cups of water. Cook in pressure cooker for 15 minutes. Cool. Shred meat and remove bones.

Add barley and carrots and cook for another 15 or 20 minutes, until tender. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot. Yield: 6 servings.

Classic Club Sandwich

3 slices bread for each sandwich

Mayonnaise

Bacon, tomatoes, lettuce

Thinly sliced cooked chicken or turkey, ham and cheddar cheese

Lightly toast the bread. Lay first slice on cutting board and spread with mayonnaise. Add sliced fresh tomatoes, salt and pepper to taste, 2 strips of crispy bacon, slice of turkey and lettuce. Add second slice of bread and spread with mayonnaise. Layer ham, cheese and more lettuce. Spread third piece of bread with mayonnaise and place, mayonnaise side down on top. Slice in half diagonally and secure each with a skewer or long toothpick. Garnish with olives or pickles, if desired.