Victoria's Chinatown

I have travelled to many cities around the world and often I have been averse to tours but when it comes to localized community tours it is always worth the time. Today's Chinatown tour in Victoria, Canada was no exception. Our tour guide with Discovery Walks was excellent. Not only does he recognize a few strategic Chinese language symbols and knows the history inside out, he is working on a book about Victoria's Chinatown. I will be watching for this book release.

I only snapped a few pictures. Most of the time I was rapt by the descriptions of life as the earliest Chinese immigrants, not ever planning to stay, unravelled into the story of their migration and new home in Canada.

Offerings of fresh fruit.

Yes, Chinese immigrants did not come with a plan to relocate. Rather it was an opportunity to earn money to send home and eventually return home to an improved life. With the changes in politics at home it became less desirable to return to the old country and as a result many stayed. And eventually they did bring some family.

It is most disappointing to hear of the inequities in life that these immigrants experienced. Chinese people were not allowed to be architects and as a result the buildings were designed by mainly British architects. As a result the style is not true but seen through the lens of another culture. Apartheid in the schools was declared and revoked. To maintain a sense of their heritage a Chinese School was built and attended after regular school hours and on weekends. Classes are still held here to teach language and culture.

Ancient gong and bell were brought from China for this temple.

There were very few women in the early days of the Chinese migration. It was a settlement of men, many lured by the gold rush, hoping to make money and return home. Most came from a farming background and as a result founded many market gardens that fed not only the Chinese but the locals. Until as late as the 1960's food was delivered in the traditional Chinese way with a bamboo pole over the shoulders carrying baskets of produce on each end.

The tour was filled with real historical facts from the migration, family and school life, gambling houses, opium dens and sadly the disintegration of Chinatown. The city of Victoria has recognized this special historical aspect and is now restoring and redeveloping with a sensitivity to the past.

I loved burrowing into the narrow alleyways to see behind the store fronts. Today's development is mirroring the old days by reconstructing a vibrant culture behind the store facades. I knew about Fan Tan Alley but there are many more alleyways.

This is a picture of new development in the back alleys of modern day Chinatown. There are residential condos and business spaces on the ground level.

We visited the first and oldest Hakku temple in Canada founded in 1905. The Hakku are from northern China. Once again our tour guide painted a vivid picture of life around the temple, in the past and in today's life. Although the temple is not as important now in the day to day life of the Chinese it is important for family celebrations and maintaining a sense of history for the young.

The exterior is very unassuming. The temple is on the top floor. Rental apartments and meeting rooms occupy the rest of the space.

After all this walking I was ready for dim sum. Sorry, I didn't take any pictures but it was delicious.

Has Table Etiquette Been Swept under the Rug? Brush Up for Christmas Parties.

The festive entertaining season is not far off and there is no time like the present to brush up on table etiquette and party manners. I remind students in Foods classes at school about their table manners and tell them they can eat however they choose at home but in public a few manners will go a long way to making good impressions.

The Dinner Party

Small or large dinner parties have a few rules for the host and guest. Casual parties can be arranged at the last minute but during a busy holiday season it is best to give three to six weeks notice. The type of invitation is determined by how formal the affair is. There is nothing wrong with a telephone call or an email for casual parties.

Have your home clean and tidy and rearrange furniture to accommodate the number of guests, if necessary. Adjust the room temperature and lighting and decide if you would like background music. Have plenty of clean towels or use disposable paper napkins in the bathroom.

Don’t begin clean up and washing dishes until guests have left, unless of course someone overstays their welcome.

As a guest, respond to the invitation as soon as possible. Don’t bring a friend unless invited to do so and never ask if you can. Arrive on time. A token hostess gift is a nice gesture. If place cards are set do not rearrange them. Turn off your cell phone ringer. Don’t be the last to leave and always thank the host for the evening.

How to Set a Table

The dinner plate is set in the centre and about one inch from the edge of the table and the salad plate to the left. Forks are placed to the left of the plate and spoons and knives to the right. The rule of thumb is to place the utensils in order of use from the outside toward the plate. If there is a salad before the main course then place a salad fork on the outside and a dinner fork next to the plate. If the salad is served with the meal there is no need for a salad fork.

The dinner knife is placed to the right of the plate with the blade toward the plate. Spoons are next to the knife. The soup spoon, if needed, is the outermost spoon.

If you are using a bread and butter plate place it directly above the forks with the butter knife resting on the plate at a diagonal. Water and other glasses are above the knife and outward from there ending with a coffee cup. The napkin can be placed on the dinner plate or to the left of the forks.

How to Hold Utensils

Next time you are in a restaurant look around and see how many people make a fist to hold their utensils. The fork or spoon should rest on the middle finger of the hand as the index finger and thumb grip the handle.

There are two different ways you can use your cutlery during a meal – the American or the Continental style. Both are proper and both may be used and interchanged in the same meal. In both styles the food is speared with the fork tines pointing down and in the left hand if you are right handed. The index finger presses down at the base of the handle. Use your right hand to hold the knife with the index finger where the handle meets the blade. Keep your elbows close to the body.

With the American style rest the knife on the side of the plate and move the fork to your right hand. With tines up spear the food and move it to your mouth.

If you use the Continental style you may rest the knife on the side of the plate or hold it in your right hand. Then with tines down move the food to your mouth.

Resting Utensils

Do you ever wonder if you should put your used cutlery on the tablecloth? Never. Don’t prop them on the edge of the plate either. Place them near the centre of the plate with the tips pointing toward each other or the knife can rest on the edge of the plate and the fork in the middle of the plate.

When the meal is finished place the fork and knife together diagonally on the right side of the plate with the knife blade facing inward. This indicates you are finished and the plate can be taken away.

During the Meal

Do you take your napkin and tuck it under your chin like a bib? I hope not. The napkin should be unfolded and placed across your lap as soon as you sit down.

When do you begin to eat? I served food to one of my kids’ cooking class groups and they were sitting there letting the food go cold. When I asked why they didn’t begin eating they reminded me of the rule I just taught them. Don’t begin until the host or hostess begins or you are invited to do so.

Are you shoveling your food with your fork or slouching over your plate? Wrong. Also resist the urge to fuss with utensils, rap your knuckles on the table or other fidgety habits. A good place for hands is on the lap.

Are you a chipmunk at the table? Don’t take large bites and store food in your cheek? Take a manageable bite and finish it before putting more food in your mouth. And don’t talk while chewing food or taking a drink.

Do you cut all your food like the baby’s plate? Cut only enough for four or five bites, lay down your knife and eat.

Do you have a boarding house reach? Reach only as far as your arm extends without crossing in front of another person. If you cannot reach simply ask, “Please pass the item” and say thank you.

Chasing a piece of food around your plate with your fork? If you are unable to pick up a piece of food with your fork don’t use your fingers to help it along. Use your knife or a piece of bread as a pusher.

Never push your plate away when you are finished eating and announce,  “I’m finished!”

Children’s Table Manners

By age six children should arrive at the table with clean hands and face. They begin to eat when everyone else does or are given permission. They will use a fork or spoon properly and begin to learn how to use a knife. They will ask for food rather than reaching and always say “please” and “thank you”. They know not to talk with food in their mouth and do not make negative comments about the food. They do not interrupt when someone is talking and they ask, “May I please be excused?” when they are finished.

By age 12 they leave plates and utensils alone until the meal begins. They watch the host and follow meal-starting rituals without comment. They sit with good posture and feet on the floor. They use all utensils correctly, take reasonable portions of food and ask for seconds, if necessary. They are polite and join in the table conversation, drink quietly with glass in one hand and try a bit of everything. Uneaten food is left on the plate and not hidden in a napkin. They offer to help at the end of the meal.

Far Breton inspired by David Liebovitz

My sweet tooth is getting the better of me as I watch bloggers make preparations for American Thanksgiving. I am not in my own kitchen at the moment which makes throwing something together more of a challenge. When I came across Far Breton on David Liebovitz's blog I was immediately intrigued. David is an American chef living in Paris and has written several cookbooks.

Not only does it look rather healthy with all the protein from eggs but the small amounts of flour and sugar are doable in my friends' kitchen which is almost devoid of anything resembling an unhealthy ingredient. There are tiny bags of flour and sugar and that's all I need.

Prunes are not as popular in North America as they are in France. I mean, usually they are only served in seniors' care homes, right? I like prunes and when they are soaked in Cognac it raises them to a higher level of deliciousness. I can only hope that by the time I am ready for a seniors' care home they hire proper chefs and make a breakfast like this.

Far is an unusual name for a dish and it refers to a flan. This recipe is much like a crepe batter so this is almost a prune flan but I like the name Far Breton much better. This is also a great recipe if you are preparing breakfast on an already busy day, like American Thanksgiving or Christmas, or if you manage a B & B.

The prunes are steamed in the liquor and soaked overnight. They are better if nice and soft. The batter is made and rests in the refrigerator overnight. I just leave it in the blender jar so I can whiz it again before pouring into the pan. All that is left to do is bake. You still need to rise early because it takes about 45 minutes to properly bake.

I like using a glass pan for dishes like this. I find it gives nicer browning. However, it will hold the heat longer and bake more quickly. I set my oven timer for 40 minutes and it was perfect. Because it's a custard a test for doneness is to insert a knife and if it comes out clean, it is ready.

Far Breton

• about 2 cups pitted prunes
• 1/3 cup Armagnac, Cognac, brandy or dark rum
• 2 cups whole milk
• 2 large eggs
• 2 large egg yolks
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1/4 cup melted butter
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 1/8 teaspoon salt
• 2/3 cup flour

Additional softened butter and flour for preparing the baking dish

In a small saucepan, warm the prunes with the liquor over moderate heat, stirring them a few times while cooking, until most of the liquid is absorbed. Cover, and remove from heat and let cool. The prunes can be done a day or two before using.

To make the custard, put the milk, eggs, yolks, sugar, melted butter, vanilla, salt, and flour in a blender. Blend until smooth. Refrigerate the custard for at least four hours, or overnight.

To bake the Far Breton, preheat the oven to 400 F.

Generously butter the bottom and sides of a rectangular baking dish 10-12 inches  in length.  Dust with flour and tap out the excess. Arrange prunes in the bottom of the baking dish.

Pour the chilled custard over the prunes and bake until the top is gently browned, 45 to 50 minutes. Let cool completely, then slice into bars.

Far Breton can be made up to three days before serving and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before serving.

Pots and Pans...Just in Time for Christmas Giving

There are many choices when it comes to stovetop cooking pots and pans. Materials range from copper to aluminum to cast iron. Each material has unique qualities and reacts differently with the cooktop and the food.  The type of cooktop in your kitchen must be compatible with the pot. The type and thickness of the material affects its conductivity or speed that heat is dispersed through the pan to the food.  

Then consider the specific use for each pot. A skillet can be used with some steamers but is not suitable as a double boiler, for example. Let’s look at materials first.

Aluminum pans are good conductors of heat and are lightweight and easy to handle. Food should not be stored in aluminum because the chemical reaction will bring a change in colour and flavour. Many people also do not want to ingest aluminum due to health concerns.

Stainless steel pans are attractive but they are not good heat conductors and you will have hot spots resulting in uneven cooking. 

Cast iron pans conduct heat well and hold heat for a long period of time. If the pan has not been pre-seasoned when purchasing then it must be done before using. If not seasoned properly the pan will dry out and food will stick during cooking and it will rust. 

Season your new cast iron pan by cleaning first in warm soapy water. Dry thoroughly then rub with cooking oil on all sides. Place in a 325 F (175 C)  oven and bake for an hour. Turn off the oven and let it cool to room temperature. Your pan is ready. Many people say that you should never wash your pan in soapy water after using but I always do. I don’t scour it, however, and it still maintains its non-stick qualities. Re-season if food sticks to the pan.

Non-stick coatings on pans are great for cooking low-fat meals because they do not require any added oils. Be careful not to use any metal utensils or rough sponges on non-stick pans because the coating scratches very easily. There are concerns with the type of materials used to make the surface non-stick and toxins released during cooking. This is the time to buy the latest type of pan and not use the older non-stick versions. Also, don’t crank up the heat. Do not use cooking sprays because they produce a sticky film on the surface. Lastly do not put them in the dishwasher. After the pan cools wash in warm soapy water. These tips will ensure safe and long use of your pan.

Copper conducts heat better than any other metal used for cooking equipment. It is expensive, heavy and requires polishing because it tarnishes. Copper reacts with food and creates poisonous compounds so pots are usually lined with a metal like stainless steel. 


Most kitchens have simple saucepots for cooking potatoes and vegetables. A variety of sizes is a good idea. When cooking with a pot, match it to the size of the element or burner. You don’t want the heat source to be larger than the pot or the sides will be too hot and begin to burn the food inside. The heat source needs to be directly under the pot.


A stockpot is a deep pot with high, straight sides and two handles. It is best for making stocks or heating a large quantity of liquid. A saucepan is similar but shallower. The lower pot makes it easier to stir the food. 


Sauté pans or frying pans are shallow pans with one long handle and either straight sides or sloped sides.  The sloped sides make it easier to use a spatula and turn food over.


A seasoned cast iron skillet is a kitchen staple. Every kitchen should have one. They are very heavy and hold a nice even heat. They are great for frying. They also have some other uses, like baking cornbread or pineapple upside down cake. They can be used on the stovetop or in the oven. 


Enamelled cast-iron pots are great in that they have the same properties as a cast iron skillet. They are quite heavy and deep, usually round or oval in shape and come with two handles and a lid. These pots, also called Dutch ovens, are great for cooking hearty meals like stews, roasts and ragus. They are also useful for braising and simmering. The enamelled finish helps with easy clean up.


Double boilers are for preparing foods that cannot be held over direct heat. A double boiler consist of a two parts, a bottom pot that holds water and an upper pot that rests inside, over the steam and away from direct heat. When the water in the bottom pot begins to simmer or boil, the steam rises and heats the upper pot. Double boilers are key in warming delicate foods like custards and melting chocolate. The upper pot can be metal or ceramic.


Roasting pans are deep rectangular pans used mostly for roasting meat and poultry. Most often they are used with a rack to hold the meat so the entire piece of meat develops a caramelized exterior. The drippings are used to make sauces and gravies.


If you have purchased a specialty cooking pot check the instructions for use. For example, I have a clay Moroccan tagine that is designed for stovetop cooking. It is only to be used on a gas cooktop.

And finally, consider your type of cooktop. Gas is loved by most avid cooks because of the faster response when adjusting the heat. There is no warming up or cooling down time required. I find that it acts like increased counter space because when it is off I don’t have to remove the pot to stop the cooking process as I would with an electric cooktop.

Conduction or flat top ranges require pots with very flat bottoms. The warranty is also voided if you place too much weight on them. An example is preserving by the hot water bath method. Canners filled with water are too heavy for the surface and may damage it.

In summary, consider your type of cooktop and the cooking job when choosing the pot or pan. Good choices will make nicely prepared food.

Lamb Loin Chops with Farro Salad

I have been intrigued with farro since I had it in a salad back in the spring while I was in Kelowna. The grains have a slightly nutty flavour and when cooked al dente add nice texture to the meal. However, it isn't easy to find farro. When I was in the city I visited the health food store and found a few packages in the sale bin. I wish I had purchased more than one.

Farro is an ancient grain that is popular in the Mediterranean. Finding exact details is about as difficult as finding the grain itself. Most information tells me it is an ancient wheat. One source says that spelt, emmer and einkorn are called farro in Italy. The difference mainly is the size of the kernel. These three grains are considered farro. So don't be surprised if the farro you buy today is a little different from the farro you buy tomorrow.

I cook this like I cook all my grains and rice, in plenty of water. I cook until almost al dente, strain it and place a clean tea towel over so it can steam for awhile. I like a clean grain so if it is still a bit sticky, rinse under cold water, strain and let air dry.

The lamb loin chops are simply seasoned with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper and seared in a pan with olive oil on both sides. Remove from pan and tent with foil for 10 minutes. Serve.

Farro Salad
1 cup farro
1/2 tomato, cubed
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
1/2 cup crumbled feta
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons tarragon wine vinegar

Cook farro as described above. When it is dry add the remainder of the ingredients and toss to coat. Serve.

Squash and Fire Roasted Tomato Soup with Quinoa

I love squash but in my opinion some of the long neck varieties lack flavour. That problem is fixed with this soup. My inspiration comes from African style Squash and Peanut Soups. In this recipe the flavours are nicely balanced so don't worry if you are not a fan of coriander or turmeric. They are not the star of the dish. I bet after a day in the refrigerator it will be even better. Because the squash is pureed there should be no problem freezing individual portions for future lunches.

Any type of diced tomato would work just fine but I happened to find a can of fire roasted tomatoes this morning in the grocery store. I like the look of the burnt bits. As an added bonus this recipe is vegetarian and vegan, since both those eating styles are popular in today's food world.

I am experimenting with some of my specialty spices but of course, substitute with what you have on hand.

Squash and Fire Roasted Tomato Soup with Quinoa

1 small squash, any variety
1 onion, coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon olive oil and 1 tablespoon butter
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tablespoon fresh ginger, finely chopped
1 14 fluid ounce (398 mL) can of fire roasted diced tomatoes
1/2 teaspoon coriander, crushed
1 teaspoon Aleppo turmeric
1/4 teaspoon piment d'esplette
1/4 teaspoon Vietnamese Saigon Cassia cinnamon
1 1/2 tablespoons peanut butter
1 teaspoon honey
1 cup mushroom stock
1 cup cooked chick peas
sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
1 cup cooked quinoa
parsley for garnish

Grill or oven roast the squash until tender. Cool and remove seeds and skin. Puree pulp with a little water.

Saute onion in olive oil and butter until translucent. Add garlic and ginger. Saute for another minute. Add coriander, cinnamon, turmeric and piment d'esplette and saute until aromatic.

Add canned tomatoes and pureed squash. Heat to bubbling and keep at a simmer. Add peanut butter, honey, stock and chick peas. Add salt and pepper to taste. Simmer for five minutes and remove from heat. Serve immediately and top with a generous scoop of quinoa. Garnish with parsley.

Roasted Chanterelle Mushrooms

Last evening I dug out the rug hooking I started when I visited Nova Scotia. My how time flies. That was in 2007. I can't believe so many years have passed since that epic road trip. It was the first car ride for my Himalayan cat, Miss Sugar. It took her all of the three weeks to acclimatize to living every day in a moving vehicle. At times she looked a tad car sick, poor thing.

Soon we will be driving to the other coast and on to Vancouver Island. By now she is a seasoned traveller and cozies up in her soft carrier on the seat beside me.

As Canadian Thanksgiving leftovers are but a fond memory our neighbours to the south are making preparations for their Thanksgiving dinners. It’s fun in the blogging world to celebrate feasts all over the world. What better excuse to cook beautiful food. This month our Cooking Light Supper Club is saluting one of our favourite herbs, thyme.

I am also highlighting a premium ingredient, Saskatchewan chanterelles. Mine come from the northern part of the province and I had the opportunity to chat with my forager, Elisabeth. I learned so much.

Wild chanterelles are the most coveted of mushrooms. They are delightfully aromatic, beautifully shaped and highly nutritious. They are picked from forests across the country between mid-July to mid-October but Saskatchewan chanterelles are special. 

“They are premium because they grow in a semi-arid climate. Saskatchewan chanterelles are dry, perfect round shapes, small size, clean, velvet touch, and the aroma is unbeatable. You don't need to see them but you can smell them when you walk into the forest,” boasts Elisabeth Poscher, professional forager and owner of Prairie Infusions out of Love, SK.

Areas with more rainfall produce large, water logged, floppy chanterelles. Saskatchewan chanterelles are small and dry, because it rains briefly then it's dry, so they come in a hurry and then stay dormant in that shape until it rains again briefly, then they grow a bit more. The drier the climate the more concentrated the chemical compounds in the plant. That is why their scent and flavour are so intense.

Poscher continues, “A customer in Toronto picked up her chanterelles at the airport and she phoned me immediately and said that she could smell them as she entered the building. She has never before seen this type of quality, ever.”

Roasted chanterelles are my side dish for this month's Virtual Supper Club. Thyme is the theme. It pairs perfectly with the earthy mushrooms. Let's see what else is on the table....

I

  Sandi with Whistlestop Cafe is hosting this month's dinner. Her main course is Tacchino Arrosto con Sale e Pepe or in English Salt and Pepper Turkey. I'm sure we will find some thyme in there, too.

Val at More Than Burnt Toast whets our appetite with Flatbreads with Honey and Thyme.

Jerry at A Life Lived shares the appetizer course with Val and presents Pear Chutney Bruschetta with Pecans and Blue Cheese

Susan at The Spice Garden takes the next course with  Golden Winter Soup.

My side dish also features the beautiful chanterelle. The Roasted Chanterelles with Thyme can stand alone or be added to a risotto. I am bringing both.

Shelby at Grumpy's Honeybunch has the grand finale and is leaving thyme alone this time and bring the trending Texan Sheet Cake cupcakes for dessert. 

Roasted Chanterelle Mushrooms

Because my chanterelles are small I have left them whole to show off their beautiful shapes.

8 oz. rinsed and trimmed chanterelle mushrooms, cut into 1-inch pieces

1 thinly sliced peled shallot

2 tbsp. olive oil

1 tbsp. melted butter

1 tsp. fresh thyme leaves

1/4 tsp. salt

1/4 tsp. pepper

In a 12 x 15 inch baking pan, mix all ingredients. Bake in a 400 F oven, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms are tender and beginning to brown on edges, 12 to 15 minutes. Use immediately or let stand until ready to use, up to four hours.

Chanterelle Mushroom Risotto

• 

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 onion (8 oz.) peeled, halved lengthwise, and thinly sliced 
  • 1 tablespoon minced garlic
  • 1/4 teaspoon each salt and pepper
  • 1 bunch (10 to 12 oz.) red chard
  • 2 cups arborio (short-grain white) rice
  • 1 cup dry white wine 
  • About 6 cups fat-skimmed chicken broth 
  • 1/4 cup shredded parmesan cheese 
  • 2 tablespoons butter 

  1.  In a 12-inch frying pan with 2-inch-tall sides or a 5-quart pan over medium-high heat, stir bacon until browned and crisp, about 5 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain. Discard all but about 1/2 tablespoon bacon fat from pan.
  2.  Add 2 tablespoons olive oil to pan over medium-high heat. When hot, add onion, garlic, salt, and pepper. Reduce heat to medium and stir frequently until onion is very soft and browned, 20 to 25 minutes (if onion starts to scorch, reduce heat further and stir in 2 tablespoons water).
  3.  Meanwhile, rinse chard. Trim and discard stem ends. Thinly slice stems crosswise and coarsely chop leaves. In a 5- to 6-quart pan over high heat, bring about 3 quarts water to a boil. Add chard and cook, stirring occasionally, until stems are tender-crisp to bite, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain, place in a large bowl of ice water until cool, and drain again.
  4.  Add rice to onions and stir until opaque, about 3 minutes. Add wine and stir over medium heat until absorbed, 1 to 2 minutes. Add 6 cups broth, a cup at a time, stirring after each addition until almost absorbed, 20 to 25 minutes total (rice should be tender to bite).
  5.  Stir in cheese, chard, and roasted mushrooms. If risotto is thicker than desired, stir in a little more broth. Spoon risotto into wide, shallow bowls.

  Note: Begin roasting the mushrooms before you start making the risotto.

  Matthew Bousquet, Restaurant Mirepoix, Windsor, CA, Sunset
  SEPTEMBER 2004

   

Bacon Wrapped Pork Medallions with Individual Pommes Anna

As I organize and make list after list for my upcoming drive to Victoria, BC (read 'seafood') I am still reminded by tummy growls that I must make food. I am a recovered hoarder and now check my freezer first before planning meals. I have a beautiful naturally raised pork tenderloin from Carmen Corner Meats in Waldheim, SK. And I still have market potatoes and carrots.

Rather than grill up the entire tenderloin as I usually do I decided to cut it into medallions and then pan grill. After making this recipe I have decided that it is a good one to make for a crowd. It is relatively inexpensive yet looks elegant. It can be prepped in advance and cooked all at once in a large pan. If I was catering this would be on my menu for sure.

Pommes Anna, obviously a French version of a potato dish, has been cropping up a lot lately. Ditto this for a crowd. I made mine in a muffin tin for an individual size serving but it could also be made in a pan and cut into squares for serving.

I like easy peasey recipes and have also been wanting to play with my piment d'esplette that I purchased back in the spring. Time flies, doesn't it. I have already kept it long enough. Ground spices and herbs have a shelf life of up to 2 years. Some say 12 months.

Piment d'esplette is the champagne of hot chiles in more way than one. It is a chili pepper that is cultivated in the Basque region of France in the Atlantic Pyrenees. These peppers were introduced from Mexico in the 16th century. Initially they were used medicinally but later became a staple in flavouring their food. Now it has AOC status. This is appellation d'origine de contrȏlée which translates to 'controlled designation of origin'. So you see, it is like champagne. Unless it comes from the Esplette region it cannot have this name.

What is so special about this chile, you say? It is only 4000 on the Scoville scale of heat so it isn't that hot but it is packed with flavour. It has a slightly smokey flavour. It has replaced black pepper in many Basque recipes.

Bacon Wrapped Pork Medallions

1 small pork tenderloin
8 - 10 slices bacon
sea salt
piment d'esplette

Remove tenderloin from the refrigerator about 30 minutes before you will be cooking. Season generously with piment d'esplette and sea salt. Cut into medallions the thickness of the bacon slice.

Preheat your oven to 350 F.

Slowly sauté slices of bacon in a heavy grill pan or cast iron pan until browned but not crispy. If they are too crispy they won't wrap around the medallions. Wrap medallions with the bacon pieces and secure with a toothpick. Season both top and bottom of the medallion with more piment d'esplette and sea salt. It is a thick piece of meat and the seasoning has to compensate for that so be liberal.

Over medium heat in the same pan used for the bacon place the medallions flat side down and sauté until bottom is golden, about 3 or 4 minutes. Turn over and brown the other side. Place the pan in the oven and continue to cook until the meat is no longer pink in the centre. An internal temperature of 145 F is ideal. Remove from the oven and tent with foil until ready to serve.

Mini Pommes Anna

small potatoes
butter
garlic
fresh thyme
sea salt

Peel potatoes and slice with a mandoline so they are almost transparent thin. I don't have a mandolin so I used my box grater. You know, that side you never use? It worked perfectly to make very thin slices.

Melt butter and brush each muffin tin with the butter. Place a round piece of parchment paper on the bottom of each muffin. Place a small sprig of thyme and then drizzle about half a teaspoon of butter in each cup.

Add minced garlic and more chopped thyme to the butter. 

If you are not immediately using the sliced potatoes put them in a bowl of cold water. If left in the air they may discolour. Before using, drain the water and dry the potatoes in a clean tea towel. Place in a bowl and drizzle with the seasoned butter and mix well.

Arrange the potato sliced in each muffin cup. Press down and fill as high as possible. It will wilt down during cooking. Cover tightly with tin foil and bake in 350 F oven for about 15 minutes. Remove the foil and bake for another 15 minutes or until tender and nicely browned on the edges.

Perfect Old Fashioned Pancakes

Every once in a while I crave a simple pancake. Mostly I make the ultra nutritious type with a variety of whole grains and oatmeal and dried fruits. They are the best. But nothing beats an old fashioned pancake for brunch with a crowd gathered to watch something like the Calgary Stampede Parade. After a lifetime in the city I have become fond of the Stampede and the traditional pancake breakfasts. I have yet to gather my friends here in my new home for a pancake breakfast to watch the Parade.

These are much better than the chain pancake restaurant pancakes. They are not so salty or sweet. To get the crispy edges generously butter the pan before adding the batter. And bonus, you can stay in your pj's on this Fall Back Sunday. However, where I live we never change our clocks. This is my first year to confuse that. With all the advertising around turning the clock back I forgot that we don't do that. So sad. I didn't get my extra hour today.

This recipe makes more than I alone can eat for breakfast (or supper if I am so inclined). In the past I have always followed every other bloggers suggestion to cook them up and freeze them. Popping them in a toaster does not bring them back to life. They are stale and tough. This time I simply kept the extra batter in the refrigerator. It held up very well. Use within a couple of days for fresh light and fluffy pancakes just like the first day they were mixed.

These take five minutes to whip up and all the ingredients are usually in your kitchen. I have taken to making them for impromptu overnight guests. Serve with bacon or sausages, maple syrup, whipped cream and fresh fruit for a satisfying start to the day. I gently sauteed apples with chopped walnuts to serve with mine today.

Old Fashioned Pancakes

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

3 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon white sugar

1 1/4 cups milk

1 egg

3 tablespoons butter, melted

In a large bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, salt and sugar. Whisk to mix all ingredients. Make a well in the center and pour in the milk, egg and melted butter; mix until smooth.

Heat a lightly oiled griddle or frying pan over medium high heat. Pour or scoop the batter onto the griddle, using approximately 1/4 cup for each pancake. Brown on both sides and serve hot.

Veal Osso Buco with Burnt Orange and Campari

From time to time I am reminded that people do read my blog. I do have followers. And to them I send my sincere apologies for being so inconsistent in posting. I struggle with time management. The farmers' market is over for the season but I continue to do lots of cooking even if it doesn't appear here.  I am always recipe testing for the Western Producer articles but my day to day cooking at the moment tends to be sporadic and uninspired.

Today I find my inspiration in one of my earlier cooking classes from November, 1996 at The Cookbook Company in Calgary. I remember the date because I bought the cookbook and inscribed the details inside the front cover. A man who became one of my favourite chefs prepared the meal that evening in a 'kitchen come cavern' in the basement of the popular cooking shop. I loved that space and wonder how it is used today. Classes are now in a larger main floor kitchen with natural light streaming highlighting crystals in the granite counters. It is bright, spacious and more of a kitchen than a dining room.

John Bishop, chef and owner of the perennially popular Bishop's Restaurant in Vancouver, was the presenter. This, taken from his restaurant website, sums up his persona perfectly ...

"Thoughtful, sincere and unassuming yet an unswerving perfectionist. John is a consummate host who in 22 years of business, has placed his brand of understated West Coast cuisine firmly on the map."
Tim Pawsey, Northwest Palate Magazine

Still after all these years he stands tall among chefs and he mentors new and experienced chefs alike.  

I have not made this recipe in a long, long time. A bottle of Campari in my cold room, beautiful veal shanks in my freezer and oranges in my refrigerator tell me it is about time I fill my kitchen with these warm aromas on this shivery cold autumn day.

Campari is generally associated with a thirst quenching summer cocktail. Its bittersweet herbal flavour is an acquired taste. A traditional pairing is orange juice so it does not surprise me at all to find oranges in this recipe. Carmelizing the orange slices layers on more complex flavours.

Serve over risotto with pan juices.

Veal shank is a less tender cut and requires long, moist cooking. If you have the time, do it this way. If time is not available a pressure cooker prepares perfectly good results. This can be served with a pasta such as fettuccine or a lentil ragout but the traditional Risotto alla Milanese is still my favourite.

Veal demi-glace is impossible to come by in a small town and making it is just about as impossible due to the scarcity of veal bones. Veal in any form is not readily available. The demi-glace is essentially a veal stock made in a traditional way and reduced to produce a more concentrated stock. I simply substitute more chicken stock.






And do not let the bone marrow find its way to the garbage. Dig it out with a little fork or knife and slather it on crusty bread for an additional treat.

Veal Osso Buco with Burnt Orange and Campari
adapted from Bishop's the cookbook

4 lbs. veal shanks, cut 1 1/2 inches thick
1 orange
1 c. red onions, finely diced
1 c. carrots, finely diced
1 c. celery, finely diced
4 garlic cloves
2 tbsp. fresh rosemary leaves
3 1/2 oz. Campari
2 c. veal demi-glace
1 c. chicken stock

Preheat oven to 350 F. Use a sharp knife to score the outside of the veal shanks, to help stop the meat from curling up while cooking.

Place the shanks in a large pot and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil and simmer for 30 minutes. Skim off any scum that rises to the surface. Remove the shanks from the water and arrange in a roasting pan.

Slice the orange and sear in a hot frying pan, until golden in colour. Cover the blanched shanks with the orange slices, diced vegetables, garlic and rosemary. Pour the Campari over top.

In a saucepan, combine the demi-glace and chicken stock and bring to a boil. Pour over the shanks.
Cover the roasting pan with foil and place in the oven for 80 minutes.

To serve, place the veal shanks and sauce in large soup plates or bowls. This can also be served plated with risotto.