Sea-buckthorn is a deciduous
shrub originating in Europe and Asia. Climate and soil conditions are ideal in
Saskatchewan and as a result, it is now being grown here. The berries are
tightly packed around the branches and surrounded by large thorns.
I purchased these berries from
Northern Vigor Berries, a Saskatchewan family business (
www.northernvigorberries.com/).
I spoke with owner Betty Forbes and she tells a story of her stepfather
planting an orchard of these shrubs in 1998. “My stepfather is never afraid
of a new venture,” says Betty, President of Northern Vigor. “When he heard
about the tremendous nutritional value of sea-buckthorn, he was eager to try
this new crop.” Betty and her brother, Gregory Bloodoff, have cared for the
crop ever since.
According to Agriculture and
Agri Food Canada (
www.agr.gc.ca)
sea-buckthorn berries are among the most nutritious and vitamin-rich fruits
found in the plant kingdom. They are rich in vitamins C, E and K, carotenoids,
flavonoids, antioxidants, 18 amino acids, and 24 chemical elements such as
phosphorus, iron and magnesium. Oil from the seed contains unsaturated fatty
acids and omega 3 and 6.
Harvesting the fruit is the
biggest challenge. “The long thorns are dangerous,” Betty says. “We wear
protective clothing and even the toughest gloves only last a few days.” The branches are cut and put
into trucks operating at -20F (-30C). “They have to be kept really cold because
of the high oil content in the berries,” Betty explains. The fruit is then
taken to a facility where it is cleaned and packaged.
Finding recipes for new food
products is a challenge. I have been playing in my kitchen with these berries
and developing recipes. I start by cooking them in water and straining to
collect the juice. The flavour of these berries reminds me of a blend of
oranges and apricots with an exotic twist. I add vanilla bean to mellow out the
tartness but I also see it pairing well with cardamom, almond and even chiles.
The berries will taste good in
sorbets, ice cream, fools, baked goods and smoothies. The jelly is bursting
with flavour.
Green Salad with Sea-Buckthorn
Vinaigrette
1 c. sea-buckthorn berries 250
mL
2 tbsp. honey 30 mL
1/2 vanilla bean
2/3 c. olive oil
160 mL
2 tbsp. white wine vinegar 30 mL
1 tsp. Dijon mustard 5 mL
2 tbsp. shallots
30 mL
1/2 c. whole pecans, toasted 125
mL
1 clove garlic, minced
sea salt, to taste
mixed salad greens
feta or goat cheese
Gently simmer berries in enough
water to cover. When berries have popped remove from heat. Strain through a
jelly bag without squeezing the bag.
Boil the juice with honey until thickened slightly. Add a few more whole
berries, scraped seeds from the vanilla bean and simmer gently. Cool.
Make the vinaigrette but adding
oil, vinegar, Dijon mustard, sea buckthorn sauce, shallots and garlic to a jar
with a lid. Shake to mix.
Toss salad greens, pecans and
vinaigrette. Crumble cheese over the top and serve.
Sea-Buckthorn Jelly
In the recipes I found added
pectin was used. A common comment is that these berries are low in natural
pectin. I tried making jelly with only sugar and it worked perfectly fine. In
my opinion, without scientific tests, these berries do have natural pectin but
probably only if you use the whole berry including the seed inside.
sea-buckthorn berries
water
sugar
Put berries into a heavy
bottomed pot. Add enough water to cover. Boil until berries have split open.
Mash berries to break them up.
Strain in a jelly bag and save
the juice. Set pulp aside for another use.
Measure juice into heavy
bottomed pot and add equal amount of sugar. Boil gently until approximately
220F (104C) on a candy thermometer. Do a jelly test. If the syrup sheets off
the side of a spoon, it is ready and pour into jars. If not, continue to boil
until jelly stage is reached. Refrigerate or water bath process the jars until
ready to use.
Sea-Buckthorn and White
Chocolate Scones adapted
from Baking, From My Home to Yours by Dorie Greenspan
1 large egg
2/3 c. cold heavy cream 160 mL
2 c. all purpose flour 500 mL
2 tbsp. sugar 30 mL
1 tbsp. baking powder
15 mL
1/4 tsp. salt 2 mL
5 tbsp. unsalted butter, cut
into small pieces and chilled 75 mL
1/3 c. sea-buckthorn berries 80
mL
1/3 c. white baking chocolate,
coarsely chopped 80 mL
Centre an oven rack and preheat
to 400F (200C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Whisk egg and cream.
Mix flour, sugar, salt and
baking powder. Add cold butter and cut in until mixture is pebbly. Add the
berries and chocolate. Toss to coat with flour.
Pour the egg mixture into dry
ingredients and stir with a fork just until a dough forms. Gently knead with
your hands.
Turn out the dough onto a work
surface and gently knead until it holds together. Divide in half. Pat each into
a rough circle, about 1 inch (5 cm) thick. Cut into 6 wedges and place on
baking sheet.
Bake 18-22 minutes or until tops
are golden. Cool at least 10 minutes before serving.
Duck Breast à la Sea-Buckthorn
1/4 c. sugar 60 mL
2 tbsp. water 30 mL
2 tbsp. tarragon vinegar 30 mL
1/3 c. sea-buckthorn juice 80 mL
2 tbsp. shallots, minced 30 mL
1 1/2 c. chicken stock
350 mL
4 duck breasts, seasoned with
salt and pepper
2 tbsp. unsalted butter
30 mL
2 tbsp. sea-buckthorn berries 30
mL
Preheat oven to 350F (175C).
Prepare juice by simmering 1/2 c. (125 mL) sea-buckthorn berries with 1/2 c.
(125 mL) water. When the berries burst and are soft, strain through
cheesecloth. Reserve juice for this recipe and set aside pulp for another use.
Boil sugar and water for several
minutes, until the syrup caramelizes and turns golden brown. Add vinegar,
shallots, and chicken stock and simmer until sauce is reduced by about half and
slightly thickened. Stir in butter, juice and berries and simmer only until
berries are soft. This can be made the day before and refrigerated until use.
With a sharp knife, score the
skin on the duck breast in a crisscross pattern being careful not to cut
through the meat. In a preheated ovenproof skillet, sear duck breasts, skin
side down over medium low heat until browned and much of the fat has rendered
out. Remove excess fat as necessary. Turn them and place pan in oven to cook
until internal temperature reaches 145F (62C), approximately 10 minutes. Remove
from oven and cover with aluminum foil to rest for 10 minutes. The duck will
continue to cook and reach an internal temperature of 160F (70C).
