Veal Osso Buco with Burnt Orange and Campari

From time to time I am reminded that people do read my blog. I do have followers. And to them I send my sincere apologies for being so inconsistent in posting. I struggle with time management. The farmers' market is over for the season but I continue to do lots of cooking even if it doesn't appear here.  I am always recipe testing for the Western Producer articles but my day to day cooking at the moment tends to be sporadic and uninspired.

Today I find my inspiration in one of my earlier cooking classes from November, 1996 at The Cookbook Company in Calgary. I remember the date because I bought the cookbook and inscribed the details inside the front cover. A man who became one of my favourite chefs prepared the meal that evening in a 'kitchen come cavern' in the basement of the popular cooking shop. I loved that space and wonder how it is used today. Classes are now in a larger main floor kitchen with natural light streaming highlighting crystals in the granite counters. It is bright, spacious and more of a kitchen than a dining room.

John Bishop, chef and owner of the perennially popular Bishop's Restaurant in Vancouver, was the presenter. This, taken from his restaurant website, sums up his persona perfectly ...

"Thoughtful, sincere and unassuming yet an unswerving perfectionist. John is a consummate host who in 22 years of business, has placed his brand of understated West Coast cuisine firmly on the map."
Tim Pawsey, Northwest Palate Magazine

Still after all these years he stands tall among chefs and he mentors new and experienced chefs alike.  

I have not made this recipe in a long, long time. A bottle of Campari in my cold room, beautiful veal shanks in my freezer and oranges in my refrigerator tell me it is about time I fill my kitchen with these warm aromas on this shivery cold autumn day.

Campari is generally associated with a thirst quenching summer cocktail. Its bittersweet herbal flavour is an acquired taste. A traditional pairing is orange juice so it does not surprise me at all to find oranges in this recipe. Carmelizing the orange slices layers on more complex flavours.

Serve over risotto with pan juices.

Veal shank is a less tender cut and requires long, moist cooking. If you have the time, do it this way. If time is not available a pressure cooker prepares perfectly good results. This can be served with a pasta such as fettuccine or a lentil ragout but the traditional Risotto alla Milanese is still my favourite.

Veal demi-glace is impossible to come by in a small town and making it is just about as impossible due to the scarcity of veal bones. Veal in any form is not readily available. The demi-glace is essentially a veal stock made in a traditional way and reduced to produce a more concentrated stock. I simply substitute more chicken stock.






And do not let the bone marrow find its way to the garbage. Dig it out with a little fork or knife and slather it on crusty bread for an additional treat.

Veal Osso Buco with Burnt Orange and Campari
adapted from Bishop's the cookbook

4 lbs. veal shanks, cut 1 1/2 inches thick
1 orange
1 c. red onions, finely diced
1 c. carrots, finely diced
1 c. celery, finely diced
4 garlic cloves
2 tbsp. fresh rosemary leaves
3 1/2 oz. Campari
2 c. veal demi-glace
1 c. chicken stock

Preheat oven to 350 F. Use a sharp knife to score the outside of the veal shanks, to help stop the meat from curling up while cooking.

Place the shanks in a large pot and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil and simmer for 30 minutes. Skim off any scum that rises to the surface. Remove the shanks from the water and arrange in a roasting pan.

Slice the orange and sear in a hot frying pan, until golden in colour. Cover the blanched shanks with the orange slices, diced vegetables, garlic and rosemary. Pour the Campari over top.

In a saucepan, combine the demi-glace and chicken stock and bring to a boil. Pour over the shanks.
Cover the roasting pan with foil and place in the oven for 80 minutes.

To serve, place the veal shanks and sauce in large soup plates or bowls. This can also be served plated with risotto.

Tuscan Rabbit Ragu with Pasta

 

I lived in Calgary for a lifetime and one of my favourite neighbourhoods was Bridgeland, little Italy. At any time you could drive in and find wild rabbits hopping in the back lanes. Folklore has it that some escaped from the warrens kept by the Italian immigrants and continue to raise their young in this friendly area.

Little Italy has the most amazing gardens brimming with tomatoes, herbs, zucchini and any variety of vegetables. The grocers bring in grapes and much wine is made in these modest homes.

This easy as pizza pie lasagna uses fresh pasta sheets layered with rabbit ragu before being crowned with your favourite grated hard cheese and fresh Parmesan. I pop it under the broiler for a couple of minutes to get that nice carmelization.

Tuscan Rabbit Ragu with Pasta

• 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh sage
• 1 1/2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh rosemary
• 2 tbsp. olive oil
• 1 (3-lb) rabbit
• 1 medium onion, chopped
• 2 medium carrots, chopped
• 1 celery rib, chopped
• 1 cup chicken stock
• 1 (28-oz) can crushed tomatoes
• 1 1/2 teaspoons coarse gray sea salt
• 1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

Heat oil heavy skillet over moderate heat until hot and add onion, carrots and celery. Saute until translucent. Add to preheated slow cooker.

 Add sage and rosemary and cook, stirring, 30 seconds. Add rabbit and cook, stirring occasionally, until rabbit is no longer pink on outside, 2 to 3 minutes. Add onion, carrot, and celery and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add wine and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until liquid is reduced to about 1 cup, 10 to 15 minutes. Add tomatoes, sea salt, and pepper and simmer, stirring occasionally, until sauce is thickened, 5 to 10 minutes.

Cooks' notes: ·Ragù can be made 1 day ahead and cooled completely, uncovered, then chilled, covered. ·

Ragù can be made with 1 1/2 pounds boneless veal shoulder, cut into 1-inch pieces, in a 6-quart wide heavy pot. Add veal to pot in place of rabbit and, after cooking until no longer pink on outside, add 4 cups water and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until liquid is reduced to about 1 cup and veal is very tender, about 1 1/4 hours. Proceed with recipe.

Baked French Toast

This French Toast can be put together the night before and refrigerated to bake in the morning. It is a great recipe any time you have guests or a busy time like Christmas or a wedding. I made it in this casserole dish but if made in a baking pan there would be more crispy bits for everyone. 

Baked French Toast

I used pannetone, an Italian Christmas bread, in this recipe. It is slightly sweet and made a wonderful baked breakfast. However any slightly sweet and stale bread will work just as well. A shallow baking dish allows lots of crispy topping bits for everyone.

Butter, for greasing the pan

8 eggs

5 c. whole milk

1/2 c. sugar

2 tbsp. vanilla extract

Day old bread such as French bread, cinnamon buns, brioche

1/2 c. walnuts or pecans

1/4 c. maple syrup

Generously grease a 9x13-inch baking pan with butter. Tear bread into chunks or cut into cubes and evenly distribute in the pan. Use enough bread to completely fill the pan. Whisk together eggs, milk, sugar and vanilla. If you are using an unsweetened bread you may want to increase the sugar.

Cover pan tightly and store in refrigerator, overnight preferably.

Before baking top with coarsely chopped walnuts or pecans and a drizzle of maple syrup. Preheat oven to 350 F and bake, uncovered, for 45 – 60 minutes or until a skewer inserted in the centre comes out clean.

Chanterelle and Chevre Quiche

Quiche were at their height of popularity in the 1980's. Every lunch menu featured at least one choice of quiche. Then crustless quiche made their debut. This was possibly the beginning of the gluten-free craze. But you cannot deny that a quiche makes a satisfying lunch or brunch. These individual pastries can be served nicely on a plate with with a green salad or fresh fruit.

Fresh chanterelles are the star of this dish. Dried mushrooms would work equally well. Pea shoots make a lovely garnish.

Chanterelle and Chevre Quiche

1 2/3 c. all purpose flour

3 tbsp. finely grated Parmesan

1/4 c. warm water

pinch of salt
1 egg

5 tbsp. olive oil

3 oz. fresh chanterelles, coarsely chopped

3 small green onions, chopped

2 large eggs

2/3 c. heavy cream

6 tbsp. crumbled chevre

2 tbsp. finely grated Parmesan

1 tsp. sea salt

freshly ground black pepper

Put the flour, salt and Parmesan into a bowl. In another bowl whisk egg, olive oil and warm water. Add liquid to dry ingredients and mix well until a dough forms. Knead lightly on a floured surface and form into a smooth ball. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill for 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 400 F. Divide pastry into six portions and roll out each to a thin circle and line six 4-inch individual flan tins. Prick the bases with a fork then line with foil and bake for 10 minutes, until beginning to colour around the edges. Remove the foil and bake for a further 5 minutes.

While the pastry is cooking, prepare filling. Heat olive oil in a large frying pan and sauté chanterelles.

Remove pastry shells from the oven. Place equal amounts of chopped green onion, sautéed chanterelles and chevre in each. Beat eggs and cream together and pour over mushrooms, then sprinkle with the Parmesan cheese. Bake for about 20 minutes until the filling is set. Serve warm.

Stilton Stuffed Baked Pears

A wine country feast is the menu this month. Whether you actually live in wine country or just wish you did these recipes can transport you to a happy place. The Okanagan is my favourite wine region and the wine I have chosen to use in this dessert is Black Sage port-style Pipe . You can't actually call a wine 'port' unless it is from the proper region in Portugal. However, Pipe a Portuguese term for a wine measure, hints at the type of wine in this bottle.

This dessert is rich. Your guests will be swooning. It in itself could be the star of the meal and I just might make it for Thanksgiving. Serve with a glass of Black Sage Pipe. Use a well proportioned glass as with any wine. Port can also be decanted before serving.

Sandi at Whistlestop Cafe is on appetizer duty and who doesn't love shrimp. Chardonnay Garlic Shrimp and Asparagus. 

Val at More Than Burnt Toast brings Butternut Squash White Bean Soup
 

Susan is capitalizing on the fall bounty with her Creamy Pumpkin and Sage Polenta

Jerry at A Life, Lived is hosting and has the main course of Roasted Breast of Chicken withPinot Noir Sauce. Jerry will be in California wine country within days. Have a great time, Jerry!

Shelby at Grumpy's Honeybunch is treating us with Honey Crisp Apple Sangria

Stilton Stuffed Baked Pears

• 1/2 c. packed brown sugar
• 2 tbsp. butter, softened
• 1/2 c. (2 ounces) crumbled Stilton cheese
• 1/4 c. dried cranberries
• 1/4 c. chopped walnuts, toasted
• 8 peeled Bartlett pears (about 3 3/4 pounds)
• 1/4 c. apple juice 
• 1 tbsp. port

1. Preheat oven to 375 F.
2. Combine sugar and butter in a small bowl, and stir until well blended. Add cheese, cranberries, and walnuts. Stir well.
3. Cut off stem end of each pear just above where the fruit begins to widen and reserve top. Remove core from stem end, and scoop out about 2 tablespoons pulp from each pear half to form a cup, using a melon baller or spoon. If necessary, cut about 1/4 inch from base of pears so they will sit flat. Place the pears in a 13 x 9-inch baking dish. Fill each pear with about 2 tablespoons sugar mixture, and replace top on each.
4. Pour apple juice and port into baking dish. Bake pears at 375 F for 30 minutes or until tender. Plate the pears and pour the juice and port mixture into a pan. Reduce to about half and spoon over pears. Serve warm.

My Cookie Cutter Obsession

I have no idea when it happened. It wasn't while I was in university in the College of Home Economics. I was a health freak before it was fashionable. Cookies did not touch my lips unless they were gall darned good.

I have never been a cookie freak but now I have a cookie cutter obsession. I am a search for a round cutter with a scalloped edge for cutting butter tart crusts. It is an older style and I am having no luck.

This set is my newest purchase and I found them in an antique shop. I love the rectangular cutter with the fluted edge. It speaks the perfect sugar cookie to me. A perfect sugar cookie with a sugary top.

Above it is a donut cutter. As a kid on the farm we didn't have this luxury. My mom made doughnuts by cutting them with a drinking glass and the hole was cut with a thimble. I am not a huge donut fan but it is nostalgic. The round fluted one means nothing to me but it was a package deal.

I would love to see your favourite cookie cutter. If you love cookie cutters visit Monique at  La Table de Nana . She has many amazing ones. I would like to see her collection one day. If you are up to it everybody, why don't you post a comment with a picture of your favourite cookie cutter? I would love to see all the ideas and hear your stories.

Marjie at Modern Day Ozzie and Harriet you must have a stash of cookie cutters. And what about you Roz at La Bella Vita Cucina or Valerie at More Than Burnt Toast. My there are so many great food bloggers. You must have a favourite cookie cutter.

This is my Canadiana collection. I had planned to make the large maple leaf for Canada Day but that didn't happen! Next year.

These two sets are my  miniatures. Autumn and Christmas miniatures. I like to use them to cut vents in pie crusts or to make pie crust decorations for a pie top.

I bought one of these for a friend who raises bees. Of course, I had to get one for me, too. You can see how much it has been used!

Cookie cutters for doggie treats. I have only used the bone shape.

I had an obsession with stars a few years back. I liked to make a variety of sizes for Christmas gift giving. I would decorate sugar cookies all in white with icing, glitter and dragees. Star of David of course would be with white or blue glaze.

These are my regular sized Christmas cookie cutters. As with the stars, I had a need to have a mitten cookie cutter. Did I use it yet? I don't think so. This year.

This is my most frivolous cookie cutter. And least practical. I used this with children. Not a good idea. The handle of the teapot is so thin that it breaks. This is merely a decoration.

And who doesn't need a set of simple circular cutters. They are my most practical and most used.